Pedestal Sink

You can’t beat a pedestal sink for a narrow bathroom, a basin set on a slender pedestal. Without a rectangular base cabinet enveloping the sink, a sleek pedestal takes up a portion of the area and forms an open atmosphere in the room.

Today’s pedestal sinks come in varied styles, from country to contemporary, all in a broad spectrum of prices and sizes.

We met a plumber who will change an existing wall-hung or vanity sink with a top-quality porcelain pedestal sink for $700, consisting of a new faucet and hook up to existing water and sewer lines.

It will cost substantially more if pure water and drain lines are required.

By our assessment, a do-it-yourself person can purchase the pedestal sink and faucet for $550 and install it and spare about 20 percent, considering you have some understanding with plumbing projects.

When checking out the job, get the rough-in proportions by measuring the distance from the floor to where the drain comes in the wall and the distance between the floor and water supply tubes.

Also, measure the distances, right and left, from each water supply pipe to the drain.

Prepare a sketch indicating these measurements and choose a pedestal sink to fit these specifications.

DIY In 17 Easy Steps – Pedestal Sink Install

Step 1

It’s wise to install the faucet on the new basin before the pedestal unit is positioned against the wall.

For this installation, use a one-piece faucet set with single lever control. It consists of several parts: The faucet itself, the supply tubes which carry water to the tap, a crow’s foot (corrugated washer), a faucet hold-down nut (lock nut), and two other nuts that hold the supply tubes in place.

First, apply the setting compound (a putty-like substance) to the bottom of the faucet. It acts as a cushion between the tap and basin, forming a seal preventing water from dripping below.

It’s essential to pack the entire underside with the compound – don’t skimp! Plan on using about two-thirds of a 14 oz. Container so that the combination squeezes out around the edges of the faucet when it’s fitted into place.

Step 2

Insert the faucet into the appropriate hole at the top of the basin. Put the crow’s foot on the shank of the tap (the piece that protrudes below), then put the faucet hold-down nut in place and tighten it as firmly as possible using a basin wrench. Trim away any excess compound.

Step 3

It’s also advisable to install the waste or mechanical drain before the basin is positioned on the pedestal.

First, apply a generous amount of setting compound to the base of the waste outlet (the part of the apparatus visible at the bottom of the sink). Many plumbers apply compound to the rubber gasket that’s also part of the assembly.

Insert the outlet into the sink; the threaded metal pipe will stick out below. Put the rubber gasket on the threaded pipe, and position it (rounded side up) against the sink’s base.

Next, put on the fiber or brass washer, then the nut that holds the entire thing together, and tighten with adjustable pliers.

Step 4

Wrap a half-dozen layers of Teflon tape around the base of the threaded stub in a clockwise direction. Then screw on the tailpiece (the lower section of chrome pipe), making sure the stub for the horizontal rod attached later is pointing to the back of the basin.

Step 5

Trim off the tailpiece as required to allow the basin to sit on the pedestal base properly.

Step 6

Insert the new P-trap into the stub of pipe that’s protruding from the wall, then put the pedestal sink in position and measure how far from the wall the unit sits. That distance will be the amount the P-trap will have to be trimmed, using a hacksaw or tubing cutter to let the sink fit snugly against the wall.

Step 7

In preparation for soldering, use the plumbers’ sand cloth to clean the chrome off the bottom few centimeters of the P-tube. A metal cap will hide the exposed brass.

Step 8

Double-check the position of the pedestal sink before continuing; the unit must be as square and level as possible.

Step 9

Most basins screw to the wall, and some pedestal bases are designed to be screwed to the floor. Take time now to mark the position where holes will have to be drilled, remove the unit, drill holes as required, and insert plastic plugs.

Step 10

Screw the hot and cold water supply tubes onto the basin underneath. Tighten the nuts holding them in place with adjustable pliers or a basin wrench.

Step 11

It’s time to solder.

First, apply flux, which is an acid, to the ends of the pipes that will be soldered together (the new P-trap and the stub of pipe sticking out from the wall). Use a brush to coat the inside and outside of both pipes.

Don’t forget to slip the metal cap on the P-trap before you solder it in place – afterward; it will be too late!

Step 12

Solder is a tin and lead compound that comes on a roll. Before application, use a propane torch to heat the part of the pipes to which the solder will be applied. The idea is to use a hot metal pipe to melt the solder rather than the flame of the torch.

Once the solder starts to flow, it will flow quickly and easily in and around the point where the pipes join. Take time to make sure the seal is complete. Pour cold water on the finished joint, and when the area is completely cool, slide the metal cap into place against the wall.

It’s advisable to place a piece of sheet metal against the wall behind when soldering to help minimize the risk of fire – and be sure to have a bucket of water handy in case of emergency.

Step 13

Put the pedestal in place and screw it to the floor. Put the basin on top, fitting the tailpiece into the P-tube.

Step 14

The supply tubes from the faucet will have to be trimmed to fit into the hot and cold water valves. Use either a junior hacksaw or a small rotary cutter. After the tubes have been trimmed and put into place, seal the connection with a 3/8 inch compression fitting.

Step 15

Tighten the two nuts on the P-trap.

Step 16

Hook up the mechanical part of the drain. Most manufacturers provide a diagram that makes the procedure reasonably simple.

Step 17

Apply tub and tile caulking along the back edge of the basin where it meets the wall and at the point where the basin rests on the pedestal.

Now, turn on the water, stand back and admire the new pedestal sink!